It's a fine embassy of Italian cuisine, offering a wide-ranging overview, featuring not just the specialties of a single region, but those of the whole country, depending on the season and the mood of the moment. The menu combines pleasure and education, with a salad of fennel and Sicilian tarocco orange served with taggiasche olives, fresh onion and a drizzle of olive oil, rigatoni from Campania alla puttanesca, Sardinian tomato coulis, anchovies and Sicilian capers, a plate of dried meat from Trentino-Alto Adige, with arugula, parmesan, olive oil and Sicilian lemon, a dessert of milk flower ice cream, apple and quince compote, Umbrian tozzetti, light mascarpone chantilly and balsamic condiment. Formulas from €25 to €43. Also available are recipes from Liguria, Puglia, Piedmont, Sicily..