Just a stone's throw from the Place de la Libération, this is a safe, gourmet stop-off for traditional Burgundy gastronomy revisited under the Loiseau signature. The €55 lunch menu is a good introduction (œuf meurette, saddle of rabbit with Fallot mustard...), and the seasonal menu sets the tone in reassuring bourgeois comfort: morels stuffed with poultry jus de volaille au vin jaune, veal filet à la cazette de Bourgogne, potato mousseline jus corsé à la cazette, rhubarb poached with Sichuan pepper pain de Gênes sorbet rhubarb. An imposing cellar full of great and small wines.