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The Tour de France is on the bike, but also in the restaurant

The Tour de France is on the bike, but also in the restaurant

Mathieu Dubus | 7/1/24, 4:54 PM
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The world's biggest cycling race is held every year on the roads of France. The race is also about showcasing local heritage and terroirs. Here's our selection of addresses in stopover towns.

Since 1903 and its departure from the café Le Réveil Matin, the Tour de France has crossed the country every year. Its growing media coverage and free-to-air television broadcasts give French heritage worldwide exposure. The natural parks, châteaux and restaurants along the route are often presented by narrators such as Jean-Paul Olivier or Franck Ferrand. Once again this year, more than 20 towns will host the start or finish of a stage of the Tour de France. An opportunity for epicurean followers of the Grande Boucle to discover addresses recommended by the Guide Jaune.

Georges Blanc, in Vonnas on July 4

Not far from Mâcon stands the Maison Georges Blanc (Gault&Millau Académie), a century-old inn. The chef has been at the helm of the restaurant since 1968. He transformed the family address, with its rich cuisine, into a more refined affair. Today, executive chef Florent Maréchau offers dishes such as Savagnin lobster à la flamme with Burgundy miso and harissa coraillée.

  • Where? 1 Place du Marché, 01540 Vonnas
  • Read the Gault&Millau review of Georges Blanc

Origine, in Dijon on July 4

Arriving in France from Japan in the mid-2000s, chef Tomofumi Uchimura cut his teeth with Emmanuel Renaut. He took over the reins of the Origine restaurant (3 toques) in Dijon and was awarded the title of Grand de Demain in the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region in 2022. He offers healthy cuisine with two dinner menus. One is entirely plant-based, like his corn and lettuce dish, accompanied by spelt, polenta, tomato, radish and gingerbread.

  • Where? 10 Place du Président Wilson, 21000 Dijon
  • Read the Gault&Millau review of Origine

Le Chef Coq, in Nuits-Saint-Georges on July 5

At the Hôtel de la Gentilhommière, traditional cuisine is the focus of chef Jérémy Combeau's Le Chef Coq restaurant (2 toques), with a menu "labeled 100% Côte-d'Or". The menu includes Gaec "de l'Aube" burnt trout in pochouse with Flavigny aniseed, accompanied by confit leek and caramelized grelots, as well as "M. Maret" poultry supreme with crayfish. Maret" chicken supreme with crayfish and panisse fries, and stewed broad beans with dates and salted lemon.

  • Where? 13 Route de la Serrée, 21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges
  • Read the Gault&Millau review of Le Chef Coq

Bénédicte - Lionel Dupouy

Octave, in Troyes on July 7

Octave (1 toque) stands in a rather reserved setting, with its characteristic Troyes-style timber-framed villas. Its chef, Baptiste Gautier, is one of the 109 Gault&Millau 2024. This accolade recognizes the restaurant's fine cuisine at affordable prices, with a starter/main course/dessert menu at 25 euros for lunch, including sea bream ceviche with redcurrants and roasted zucchini.

  • Where? 23 Rue des Quinze Vingts, 10000 Troyes
  • Read the Gault&Millau review of Octave

Gric, in Orléans on July 9

Close to the city's Halles is the Gric restaurant (1 toque). Its young team, led by chef Marie Gricourt, livens up the heart of Orléans. The atmosphere and decor are that of a modern bistro. In terms of cuisine, the lunchtime menu costs 28 euros and the dinner tasting menu 55 euros. Comforting dishes are served, such as fillet of beef with pomme paille, hummus and morel sauce.

  • Where? 8-10 Rue des Halles, 45000 Orléans
  • Read the Gault&Millau review of Gric

DR - Studio 204

Le Cromesquis, Aurillac, July 11

Nathalie Borne and Luc Parmentier have been living in this former forge in the heart of Aurillac for almost ten years. Weekdays at Le Cromesquis (2 toques), the daily menu costs 22 euros. In the evening, he in the kitchen and she in the cellar give free rein to their imagination. Three menus are available: Saveur, Tentation and Surprise, ranging from 33 to 69 euros per person. Creations such as crab remoulade with baby vegetables and herbs are also available.

  • Where? 1 Rue du Salut, 15000 Aurillac
  • Read the Gault&Millau review of Le Cromesquis

La Table de Michel Dussau, in Agen on July 12

The road continues south, where we find Michel Dussau and his eponymous establishment. Le Grand de Demain 1999 now focuses more than ever on local producers. Like his planked red mullet fillets, served with new potatoes, artichoke bouquets, beef marrow tartine and aniseed-flavoured head juice.

La Grange, in Saint-Lary-Soulan on July 13

The Tour de France came here for the first time in 1974 and saw Raymond Poulidor win. La Grange (1 toque), what better tribute could there be to this champion son of a farmer? In his restaurant, Nicolas Aubiban promotes Pyrenean terroir. His spring lamb, with braised and grilled shoulder and garlic cream, is a testament to this.

  • Where? 13 Route d'Autun, 65170 Saint-Lary-Soulan
  • Read the Gault&Millau review of La Grange

Red - Margaret Hôtel Chouleur, in Nîmes on July 16

In the heart of the listed Hôtel Chouleur, chef Georgiana Viou officiates in the kitchens of Rouge - Margaret Hôtel Chouleur (3 toques). The "Grand de Demain" 2021 has abandoned the à la carte menu and offers two menus, called "découverte" and "dégustation", at 110 and 160 euros. Products are traced and producers are highlighted on the description, like the cold-smoked Bleu du Grau-du-Roi followed by a stew of fermented broad beans and strawberries.

Onaka, in Nice on July 20 and 21

The Tour de France of culinary universes also includes Japanese inspiration. Chefs from Japan are numerous. Like Alexis Luong, chef at Onaka (2 toques), who is one of the 109 of the 2024 edition. In a luminous, wood-panelled room, the chef offers a wide spectrum of creations that can be grouped together in his omakase menu at 70 euros per person. He is assisted by Alex Couvidat, saké sommelier for the house.

  • Where? 12 Pass. Masséna, 06000 Nice
  • Read the Gault&Millau review of Onaka

P Lattes - Marko Raguz

La Menthe Poivrée, in Gap on July 18

In the prefecture of the Hautes-Alpes, Ana and Fabien Rimasson offer their guests market cuisine. The design of the plates is also an important variable for the couple. Restaurant La Menthe Poivrée (1 toque) has two menus, at 37 and 55 euros, with dishes such as homemade smoked salmon cannelloni, served with crab, cucumber, fromage frais and kalamansi gel.

  • Where? 8 Rue des 3 Frères Dorche, 05000 Gap
  • Read the Gault&Millau review of La Menthe Poivrée
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