Yozora

Rating: 14.5
Author: Gault&Millau

57000 METZ

14.5/20
Chef's Restaurant

BOOK

6 PHOTOS

Chef: Charles Coulombeau
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | Signature cuisine
Style: Elegant | Romantic

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

95 to 175

Gault&Millau's review 2026

On the second floor of the Centre Pompidou-Metz, a decentralized branch of the Parisian museum, Charles Coulombeau, chef at La Maison dans le Parc in Nancy, deploys his second gastronomic showcase under the Chinese hat-shaped roof of the brilliant Shigeru Ban. Here, art and gastronomy converse in all simplicity. There's no need to look for a spectacular décor or a "table scene": square tables have simply been arranged around the periphery of a large empty space. Above all, it's the chef's cuisine that imposes his singularity: an alliance of French rigor and Japanese sensibility. His cuisine stands out for its flawless technical precision, the art of precise cooking and its obsession with balancing flavors: deep umami, perfectly balanced sweet and salty notes and a play of acidic contrasts, thanks in particular to citrus fruits. The plates are like paintings, highlighting seasonal products and the transparency of their origins. From the amuse-bouche onwards, the chef's Franco-Japanese cuisine sets its course. Octopus and foie gras curl up in a cream of black sesame and nori, enhanced by a hint of sake that caresses the palate. The signature dish, a mosaic of raw langoustines marinated in calamondin, rests on a bavaroise of Granny-Smith and ribot milk, topped with chive oil, where marine freshness and acidic nuances mingle. Red mullet, served cold in a bowl on a stand, is revealed in two acts: first comes its lightly torch-burned color, then, as if by sleight of hand, a deep, iodized, jellied dashi broth spiked with grainy mustard. Rosé veal, simply pan-fried, is accompanied by a declination of Jerusalem artichokes and a slightly cumulative sake sabayon, while melanosporum truffles diffuse their woody aroma. The dessert, a tribute to Welsh artist Cerith Wyn Evans, combines chocolate ganache, black sesame, combawa and citrus fruits in a chromatic composition of crispness and creaminess. In this minimalist space, where service is measured and attentive, dressed in black with a discreet obi, a refined nod to Japan, Charles Coulombeau creates a delicate score: each plate becomes an ephemeral painting, suspended between architecture and delicacy.