Maxime Laurenson, who has been to some fine classical schools, has found his karma in this young restaurant that he embodies so well, just a stone's throw from Perrache station, in this elegant raw setting of wood and stone, with a touch of greenery on the walls. As far as the food is concerned, it's rather sophisticated rustic, with sequences of imposed hidden menus aimed at the young clientele that suits him so well. Delicacy and subtlety are the order of the day, right from the start, with a declination on catfish, in mouthfuls, skin soup (incredibly deep and long) and cookie seasoned with pike roe, the same in-depth work on frogs, snails and arctic char, in a sequence at €115 that's quite impressive, with straightforward tastes that are clearly perceptible despite the small portions. A nice transition to the desserts with strawberry, before the final touch of chocolate and porcini. A wine cellar with an emphasis on regional wines, from the South as well as the North, with numerous discoveries and service right on target.