This street-corner address, which has already enjoyed a twenty-year history with Gault&Millau over the years, is the place to be in the Ainay district: underneath its bistro allure is a truly fine chef's table, with Louis Fargeton, who trained at Têtedoie, providing a consistently interesting score on menus that have no choice but to include dishes that are also available à la carte: ceps, nasturtium and ansinthe, scallops pumpkin and jasmine, blue quince and balsamic, plum hay and almond, just a few examples from a €69 winter menu that makes for a lovely evening. Interesting wine cellar, at all prices.