Les Cocottes Françaises

Rating: 12.5
Author: Gault&Millau

06700 SAINT-LAURENT-DU-VAR

12.5/20
Gourmet Restaurant

BOOK

5 PHOTOS

Chef: David Vaqué
Cooking: French
Services: Terrace
Style: With family | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2026

Chef David Vaqué has set up his Cocottes Françaises on the seafront promenade des Flots Bleus in Saint-Laurent-du-Var, an eclectic mix of the best and the worst. A Maître cuisinier de France, he remains faithful to the teachings of his peers, such as Michel Guérard, to cook well and well. His bistro-style cooking may sometimes be embellished, but always remains faithful to the foundations of a French cuisine that explores the great classics of the terroir. Pike quenelles with shellfish coulis, melting poultry ravioli with hazelnut cappuccino, pâté en croûte and other comforting dishes, Bresse chicken in ballotine, pork chop with honey...not forgetting spit-roasted lamb shoulder, andouillette with string, Toulouse sausage with lentils... And then there are the cocottes. These, it must be said, are a little disappointing: although they evoke dishes simmered for a long time by the fireside, here they only serve as decorative containers, blanquette de veau, daube, quasi de veau with gnocchi, parmesan cream and cognac and Williams pear jus, or kidneys in Madeira sauce... Disappointment disappears when the desserts appear: Grand Marnier soufflé, Peach Melba, millefeuille and, above all, the incredible crêpes Suzette made in front of you at the "guéridon", in the purest tradition of service, which, by the way, is as charming as the sea view is beautiful. The cellar, with its 70 references, will suffice, but if in doubt, some fifteen wines of great lineage should finish convincing. In the distance, a pair of swans undulate on the sparkling sea.