La Côte Saint-Jacques

89300 JOIGNY

17/20
Prestige Restaurant

BOOK

14 PHOTOS

Chef Jean-Michel Lorain

Cooking French | Gastronomic | specialty

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

215€ à 295€

Gault&Millau's review

17/20

Prestige Restaurant Burgundy's string of major stages naturally evolves with the times. And while we hardly ever take the N6 to "descend into the Midi" as we did half a century ago, we still like to make the detour via Joigny, a quarter of an hour from the A6 exit. Alexandre Bondoux, a well-trained, well-structured young chef and nephew of Jean-Michel Lorain, has taken full responsibility for the kitchens. His ideas are there, the work tools are efficient, and the "Côte Saint-Jacques" brand is as promising as it is demanding. The question of transferring chef's hats obviously arises, but Jean-Michel Lorain remains on hand to provide support and advice where needed. Among the new dishes tasted this year, the chipiron cèpe crête de coq, beautifully presented with a pleasant interplay of textures (tempura, squid ink sauce, chipiron stuffed with cèpe and crête), the lobster blanquette is generous, with its seasonal vegetables, the shimeji and veal foot, onion and ginger compote, the imposing blanquette emulsion and the lobster jus for a plate that's a little heavy but very tasty. There's no doubt that the technical baggage is there, with precision of juices and cooking at every stage, notably the excellent pigeon peach and ratatouille, with those typical markers of a claimed provincial character. A fine platter of regional cheeses, a lovely and spectacular fig dessert, a good wait staff led by Mathias Lemercier, while head sommelier Thomas Noble looks after a very fine Burgundy cellar, offering both the great climats and the great winegrowers as well as the smaller appellations and mentions (irancy, coteaux-de-dijon...), and opening up, still timidly, to other regions, even if we note a fine selection in jura.

Plan

Address 14 Faubourg de Paris
89300 Joigny

NAVIGATE TO

Opening

Opened today

Monday Lunch Dinner

Tuesday Lunch Dinner

Wednesday Lunch Dinner

Thursday Lunch Dinner

Friday Lunch Dinner

Saturday Lunch Dinner

Sunday Lunch Dinner

People

Jean-Michel Lorain Chef

Alexandre Bondoux Chef

Brice Béchard Pastry Chef

Matthias Lemercier Chef de service

Thomas Noble Sommelier

Menu A la carte

Starter Huîtres spéciales ˝Gillardeau˝ en petite terrine océane €89 Foie gras poêlé, compression de cèpe et endives Jus au poivre sauvage de Madagascar €96

Main course Lieu jaune de ligne légèrement fumé au caviar ˝Osciètre˝ €118 Noix de ris de veau au Gingembre, petits oignons, rhubarbe et radis roses €112

Dessert Variation autour du miel de nos ruches €36 L’arbre d’automne étoilé, banane et sésame torréfié, glace stracciatella €36

Menus Menu ˝Découverte˝ €215 Menu ˝Gourmand˝ €245 ˝Grand Menu˝ Jean-Michel Lorain €295