Virtus is first and foremost the story of Frédéric Lorimier and his partner, Camille Gouyer, he in the kitchen, she in the dining room, two inseparable links in the history of this place and the meteoric rise to our three toques. Gourmet, silky, comforting, the cuisine of Arnaud Donckele's former pupil in Saint-Tropez is never ostentatious, daring the lisette just seared with mustard seeds, Solliès fig and herbaceous nasturtium velvet, then reassuring with barbecue-roasted Mesquer squab, creamy corn and pearl juice of petit épeautre, before enticing with mirabelle plum au naturel and glazed tagetes, crispy gavotte and warm confit au gratin with Ente plum liqueur. A rich, well-honed cellar.
