La Table - Christophe Hay et Loïs Bée

Rating: 16.5
Author: Gault&Millau

45160 ARDON

16.5/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

15 PHOTOS

Chef: Christophe Hay
Cooking: French
Services: Access for people with disabilities
Style: With family | With friends

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

47 to 155

Gault&Millau's review 2026

We can confirm it: the most gifted spiritual son of Christophe Hay, winner of the Grand de Demain national 2026 award, is going to grow even more. In fact, a few of the ideas he's come up with of late are the strong ingredients of a personality that's emerging ever more clearly. It's true that Loïs Bée benefits from the support, advice, products and suppliers of the master of Fleur de Loire, but, in addition to his already impressive technical baggage, he and Chloé in the dining room demonstrate a hitherto unknown dimension of epicurean well-being, to which their status as blossoming young parents is undoubtedly no stranger. For it is he who produces this marvellous leek tartlet, crêtes-de-coq, Pithiviers almonds, quite simply a great dish, unostentatious and very well mastered. Surprising and racy, the truffle tian with its brown, wintry tones deploys a remarkably balanced palette of textures and flavors. Helianthus, walnut and mushroom follow one another with fluidity, offering length and depth on the palate, without ever giving the impression of a demonstrative plate. A dazzling success, revealing a personal culinary sensibility and an ability to break free from expected codes. The menu continues with white love, a rare gray carp, potato, carrot and andouille from Jargeau, and the excellent mouflon de Chambord, salsify, oyster mushrooms and shiitake. New pastry chef Gabriel Jimenez makes an immediate impact: his chocolate sorbet with pear and Timut tarragon further embellishes an ever-increasing ensemble. The score is rounded off by a remarkable job by sommelier Martin Tomala, on an eclectic cellar, rich in loires, but with a fine selection of great keels, whose precise pairings and mastery of coffees and infusions enrich the experience.