It's hard for Julien Lefebvre to choose between gastro for a smaller clientele, and something a little more popular for budget-conscious tourists. The young chef could perhaps do both (his first menu, excluding weekends, costs €30), but it's not an easy task and the menu is very attractive, with melon watermelon gambas in fennel cream and shellfish jelly, sole in French pea ballottine with sorrel sauce and red fruit pavlova with strawberry sorbet, a pleasant sequence at around €75. For an aperitif snack, oysters and salmon gravlax with a house cocktail.