Right in the heart of the Croix-Rousse, in the discreet rue du Chariot-d'Or, a bistronomic address with daring combinations and successful cooking. The chef, Frédéric Taghavi, changes his menu every month, and in late autumn he's proposing meltingly delicious gnocchi with parmesan cream, morels and hazelnuts, or a small, well-balanced sea urchin-celery tart. The main course featured trout cooked just right, topped with grilled razor clams and drizzled with a green curry marinara sauce. Two desserts were on the menu: small but gourmet poached pears with tonka bean, pear liqueur sorbet, hazelnut and Dulcey chocolate, or a more exotic pepper-infused kiwi, honey tuiles, vanilla ice cream and lime cream, a tangy, gourmet dessert. A word of warning to heavy eaters who crave high-calorie Lyonnais specialties: these small, well-prepared dishes take time to prepare and are more refined than copious. Interesting choice of local wines.