Clément Duplay in the dining room, Ugo Estivalet, Felipe Pineros and Robin Ageron in the kitchen have set up shop on Croix Rousse hill, right next to Le Gros Caillou, replacing Le Petit Gadin. In this large dining room with its beautiful glass hangings, the cuisine is confident, somewhere between bistro and period: the traditional pâté croûte becomes canaille in its all-pig version, with interesting combinations such as saithe with beet, grapefruit and pomegranate. Gourmet desserts include tonka bean crème pâtissière and chestnut and mandarin ganache. A good lunch menu at €27, tapas in the evening, a cellar of discoveries and a terrace for fine weather.