Bulle d'Osier - Clos Vauban

52200 LANGRES
15/20
 Remarkable Restaurant
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© Matteo Carassale
© Matteo Carassale
© Matteo Carassale
5 PHOTOS
Chef
Valentin Loison
Cooking
French | Gastronomic
Style
Elegant | Romantic
Budget (€)
Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
140 to 180

Gault&Millau's review 2026

This table, which seems to have come out of nowhere and owes everything to Laurent Petit's desire to recreate gastronomy in his native region, can be, for the young couple who run it, as much a mirror in the sky as a springboard. The four-toque chef, who handed over his Clos des Sens to his teams in 2023, has in fact created, at the entrance to the historic town, and from a beautiful old house, a superb place for which he has entrusted the keys to two young people from his region, Valentin Loison, a chef of Korean and Jura origin, and his partner Anaïs Bercegeay, from Saint-Nazaire, whom he met at Mauro Colagreco's Mirazur. So, there's a lot of work to be done, a young, determined team, and a tool to be put to good use. The slightly unavoidable fashionable tics, the locavorist discourse, the manners and mannerisms, the horrifying imposed hidden menu, make us think of yet another recitation for country bumpkins (Haute-Marne is so much more exotic than Bali!). But we have to bow our heads, because there's talent here, lots of talent. Anaïs is a very good director, who knows her score and finds the right arguments with sincerity. Then, the plates speak for themselves: if the appetizers, served one by one like relics, are a little anodyne, after the artichoke herb and flower starter very Clos des Sens, and the shallot soup too marked by the polypode, here are the crayfish à cru verveine zucchini en corolle which have taste, freshness and allure, with a well-worked xo sauce and the perfume of agastache, the excellent pike-perch in ikejimé sudachi bergamot celery with a gourmet vinaigrette like a sauce to be eaten, the highlight being the duck, a fine work in three plates, the skewered heart, the shredded thigh, the fillet very well cooked, condimented with yuzu kosho, duck juice angelica from the garden. It's the chef who makes the pastries: his "chef's desserts" are nonetheless well executed and do not detract from the overall picture, with fig tartlet and cream, fig leaf granita or Vosges blueberries or "brimbelles" with goat's cheese ice cream. The cellar is still being developed, but is already quite interesting, commented on with confidence by the hostess. Let's take a gamble on youth and immediately award the three toques to this united, determined and talented young couple, who will undoubtedly make their own mark on this promising ensemble.
LOCATION

LOCATION

© OpenMapTiles © OpenStreetMap
Address Place du Colonel Grouchy
52200 Langres
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Opening hours

OPENING HOURS

  • MON
  • TUE
  • WED
  • THUR
  • FRI
  • SAT
  • SUN
People
  • Valentin Loison
    Valentin Loison Chef
    Valentin Loison Valentin Loison Chef
  • Anaïs Bercegeay
    Anaïs Bercegeay Head sommelier
    Anaïs Bercegeay Anaïs Bercegeay Head sommelier