Restaurant Christopher Coutanceau

17000 LA ROCHELLE

17/20
Prestige Restaurant

BOOK

6 PHOTOS

Chef Christopher Coutanceau

Cooking Gastronomic | specialty

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

260€ à 310€

Gault&Millau's review

17/20

Prestige Restaurant Dès que le vent soufflera... Renaud could, without distorting his song, add a verse dedicated to Christopher Coutanceau, so much so that one wonders... Is it really he who has taken to the sea, or is it the other way round? The sea is his universe, his passion, his constant source of inspiration. If, from the outside, his house doesn't provoke any architectural shock, once inside, you can't help but be seduced by the comfort, the harmony of the soft colors, the fluidity of the lines and the panorama that opens onto the charming little beach of the competition and the comings and goings of fishing and pleasure boats. In short, the perfect osmosis between the environment and the dishes to come. After a few quick (too quick?) appetizers, the first gustatory thrill comes with a langoustine "au naturel", as it were: an absolutely fresh tartar with discreet notes of mustard and sea herbs. Perfect for getting your feet wet before diving in. With, for example, this other splendid langoustine, barely out of the water and already just seared on the barbecue, whose delicate iodine dimension is preserved and enhanced by the presence of sea bean tagliatelle perfumed with a samphire pesto with "maritime alysson" accents. A skilful broth of langoustine heads enhances the pleasure. A balancing act. As for the spider crab, it is brilliantly highlighted by artichoke (in strips fried in olive oil, but also in creamy form), coral, parsley, obione, airy mayonnaise... A lovely work that plays on contrasting flavors and textures. Here, the "simple" cuttlefish emancipates itself and gives of its best, sun-drenched by a rougail-style accompaniment. A vigorous dish softened by the presence of fresh almonds, fennel and a creamy cuttlefish liver... And how could we resist tempura tentacles refreshed with a tomato water mayonnaise! To round off this trip to the sea, mackerel takes center stage. Lightly smoked on the Japanese barbecue, it is combined with a candied egg yolk, peas ("à la française", creamy...), black shallot... A few eclairs gracefully highlight this dish: a dash of garum, a bone juice flavored with trout roe, a pea water infused with Île de Ré vodka... To prepare the sweet sequence, the return to terra firma takes a roundabout route: in this case, a variation on the potato. The dessert is equally enthusiastic, combining strawberry, rhubarb, elderflower and meringue with exquisite delicacy. Under the leadership of the urbane Nicolas Brossard, the "grande maison" service is affable and attentive. The opulent and patiently compiled wine list boasts 2,400 references and over 22,000 bottles. It's a guarantee of diversity, of course, but also of being able to choose first-rate vintages.

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