Le Manoir de la Régate

44300 NANTES

16.5/20
Remarkable Restaurant

15 PHOTOS

Chef Mathieu Pérou

Cooking French | Healthy cooking | Modern | specialty

Services Accomodation | Children's menu | For people with disabilities | Pets allowed | Private parking

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

50€ à 145€

Gault&Millau's review

16.5/20

Remarkable Restaurant We're going to have to invent a supercategory for Mathieu Pérou, who is rapidly emerging as a Très Grand de Demain after winning the Gault&Millau trophy in the 2024 edition. For the last two years have shown a remarkable rise to power. It's no longer Loïc's son who does the cooking, but chef Mathieu Pérou, devoted to his region, and above all to its producers, fishermen, pickers and breeders. Around his home, he has federated a spirit of excellence, touching every detail, like the butter from a Choletaise farm or the beet bread in homage to Bouguenais-born Édouard Nignon. Everything is coherent and delightful, right from the first courses (smoked eel, tench, agastache, bacon, corn), and the creations based on fishing from the Erdre, Loire or Grand-Lieu lakes are breathtaking, like the braised catfish cooked in confit, sparkling beurre blanc with yuzu koshu, or the bream ikejime leek, a delightful play on textures in the spirit of brandade. The terroir and seasonal flavors are everywhere, in the superb celery starter that concentrates the flavors, in the freshwater prawns raised by a Nantes fisherman with a charcuterie jelly and a powerful bisque, or in the magnificent pigeon from a farm near Ancenis, perfectly cooked, soft and supple, with quince roasted in cider and onion confit. The graphics are carefully designed to ensure that everything is in sync, right through to the lovely dessert of buckwheat apple and vanilla cream. The service, orchestrated by Anne-Charlotte, the chef's sister, lives up to the reputation of this family house, which is becoming one of the region's great attractions. Interesting wine cellar, with no lack of taste, but much wiser and more classic than this brilliant and innovative cuisine.

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