La Maison dans le Parc

Name: La Maison dans le Parc
Address: 3 Rue Sainte-Catherine, Nancy, Great East, 54000, FR
Telephone: +33383190357
Price range: 82€ - 160€
Rating: 15.5

54000 NANCY

15.5/20
Remarkable Restaurant

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9 PHOTOS

Chef: Charles Coulombeau
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | Signature cuisine
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Pets allowed
Style: With family

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

82 € to 160 €

Gault&Millau's review

15.5/20

Remarkable Restaurant Just a stone's throw from Place Stanislas, in an imposing 18th-century building, the restaurant boasts a contemporary aesthetic designed by Dominique Babigeon: sober lines, beige tones and a wall of bottles as the centerpiece. On the plate, Charles Coulombeau imposes his vision: a contemporary cuisine d'auteur, founded on the technical rigor of the French school, subtly imbued with Japanese aesthetics. The opening is remarkable: three high-flying amuse-bouches - carrot and miso, crispy beet with trout roe, avocado and sake-marinated pear - immediately set a precise aromatic framework between umami, fermented sweetness and vegetal freshness. The range of homemade breads, including nutty focaccia and eco-friendly Nordic bread, is accompanied by five fragrant butters. Among the dishes that stand out is the chef's signature conceptual and ambitious plant-based starter, "Fabaceae en 30 façons", a sort of edible landscape of peas and legumes, a masterful exercise in style with its logic of texture and contrast; highlighted by touches of Earl Grey tea, ginger and wasabi, this dish proves an audacious but successful gamble between spicy, floral and spicy. Stingray, a fish with a reputation for difficulty, is transcended here: garnished with streaks of sesame paste alternating with streaks of seaweed paste, it reveals a Japanese precision. The coquelet en ballotine, with its combination of scallops, miso and coffee, presents a skilful balance in a register that is, to say the least, unprecedented. The strawberry soufflé, classic in form, is renewed by the herbaceous freshness of shiso, while the dark chocolate is boldly assumed, with the umami of shiitake combined with dark cocoa and the roasting of buckwheat. Service is serious and courteous. A special mention goes to the sommelier, who guides us through the choice of pairings with precision and determination, and with a well-argued discourse. The beautifully presented wine list features fine references from Champagne, Alsace and Burgundy, with relative originality for the other regions. It's worth noting that the terrace, which is sometimes obligatory, offers little comfort, especially when it gets cool in the evening. But the experience remains a positive one, thanks to Charles Coulombeau's uncommonly precise cuisine, at the crossroads of French and Japanese influences. It's not afraid of complexity or simplicity.