Here, you can smell the wood fire even before you've laid down your napkin. Marco Pelletier, former head sommelier at Le Bristol turned committed winemaker, plays with the embers as he does with the grape varieties: with precision and personality. The smoky scent mingles with candles and subdued lighting, creating a hushed atmosphere where wine naturally takes its place. The cellar impresses with its 3,500 references, chosen with the same exacting standards as its plates. These open with a melting, smoky octopus balanced by a spicy gazpacho and juicy peaches, before an intense, contrasting lacquered pork loin. The meal ends with a massalé sorbet, an audacious sweet curry married to tangy passion fruit. In the evening, expect to pay around €70 for starter, main course and dessert.