Just another neo-bistro? Perhaps, but if the codes are well respected, the atmosphere, like the plate, brings that dose of personality that is sometimes lacking elsewhere. Impeccable sourcing of local produce, care and attention to detail go into creating a short menu where everything is of interest: beet mackerel with tonnato-style condiment and anchovies, diving scallops with spinach pesto and barb emulsion, pleasant mushroom raviole with cantal cream and yellow wine, cheeses from the nearby Vasselot cheese factory, pear mascarpone peanut praline tartlet..