Patiently, step by step, François-Xavier Sailly, in the kitchen, and his partner Laurie Graux, in the dining room, have climbed the ladder, finally taking that third, elusive step this year. Three toques was a foregone conclusion, so much so that this former salt granary in the heart of this tourist port seems to have been born under a lucky star. A former pupil of Florent Ladeyn, in particular, to whom he regularly refers, but also of Adrien Descouls at Le Broc, the chef has forged his own personality, which manifests itself in a cuisine that is inventive, light and strongly rooted in its terroir, daring, for example, with mature monkfish, haddock, red beet and chives, or the combination of langoustine and duck in a dish that is absolutely perfect in terms of balance and deliciousness. The desserts follow suit (lactic rhubarb and high-flying geranium sabayon), the service is improving too, under the very professional direction of Laurie Graux, and the cellar is getting a little richer every season. Superb views over the salt marshes and a vast terrace for fine weather.