Saisons - Institut Paul Bocuse

69130 ÉCULLY

13.5/20
Chef's Restaurant

10 PHOTOS

Chef Florian Pansin

Cooking French | Local | Traditional

Services Children's Menu | Disabled access | Pets allowed

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

115€

Gault&Millau's review

13.5/20

Chef's Restaurant In Lyon's most affluent city, this neo-Gothic château, built in 1880 by a pupil of Viollet-le-Duc and now owned by a famous management school, is a real eye-catcher. We love the volume of the lounges, the well-laid round tables, the service provided by hand-picked staff with brilliant interpersonal skills. Florian Pansin's cuisine, advertised in succinct titles, shines through its clean, precise presentations. In the "Vivier du Château" menu, we appreciated the freshness of the scallops served raw, with a fresh and light consommé with lemongrass and lovage, whose fragrances were nevertheless a little too dominant for our taste. Then this admirable pike-perch, transcended by precise cooking worthy of a 3-toque cuisine, served with fine radishes grown at the institute, but accompanied by a Morgon red wine reduction with smoked butter, alas too salty. Served in a cashew nut viennoise, Ardèche pigeon, whose flesh is sublimated by precise cooking, is flanked by eggplants whose taste is a little distorted by that of the beet. The acidic nuances omnipresent throughout the meal provide just the right amount of freshness, including in this lovely chocolate dessert, with its caramelized peanut chantilly cream, passion fruit caramel and mango passion sauce, all enhanced by a powerful cocoa sorbet. After the service, the sommelier's advice is the second strong point of this house. For example, he suggests a delicious Moulin-à-vent Château des Jacques 2015, one of the best in its category.