Maison Vanobel

56950 CRAC'H

13/20
Chef's Restaurant

4 PHOTOS

Chef Rémi Vanoverschelde et Sophie Coulombel

Cooking French | Local

Services Privatization

Gault&Millau's review

13/20

Chef's Restaurant Winners of the Dotation Jeunes Talents Gault&Millau 2024, Sophie Coulombel and Rémi Vanoverschelde are a pleasure to behold in their beautifully renovated home. It's simple, but so charming! Open-plan kitchen at the entrance, a few tables, a counter for cakes (afternoon tea) and bread (Rémi is also a talented baker). The space is extended by a glass room that opens onto a pretty, sheltered terrace. The colors are soft, the furniture harmonious. It's cheerful, aesthetic... very well thought-out. Particular attention has been paid to the "details" - which aren't really details at all - with colorful towels, a branded water jug and a pretty card holder... Rémi likes to play with fire, in the positive sense of course, through a cuisine that's crossbred, understandable, harmonious, convivial and accessible... Why not start with the creamy texture of smoked Paimpol coconut hummus? The taste is straightforward, with smoky notes that are present but not excessive. The preparation is spiced up with a hint of the sea and a few bursts of dulce. As an accompaniment, the homemade "man'ouché" bread (a bread of Lebanese origin with zaatar) proves highly addictive. It's all very clever. The skate wing, of impeccable quality, is flame-cooked and boosted by a "pico de gallo" (a Mexican condiment of tomatoes, onions, sweet pepper, fennel...). It can be accompanied - or not - by eggplant, also flambéed and "refreshed" with a peanut-flavored salsa. The dessert is just as convincing. Very lightly sweetened, it aptly combines the acidity of rhubarb with the creaminess of a particularly delicate green cardamom milk mousse and an almond cookie. In the dining room, Sophie, smiling and punchy, is omnipresent, including when commenting on the short wine list, which focuses on cutting-edge winemakers: burgundy epineuil from Alain Mathias, touraine-amboise from Damien and Coralie Delecheneau, lirac from domaine Maravilhas, Corsican from domaine Mondange...

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