Villa René Lalique
18 Rue Bellevue, 67290 Wingen-sur-Moder, France
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10 PHOTOS
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Practical information
- Location
- Wingen-sur-Moder
- Chef
- Paul Stradner
- Cooking
- French | Gastronomic | Local
- Style
- Elegant, Romantic, With family
Budget
(€)
Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
110 to 230
Gault&Millau's review 2026
17,5/20
Prestige Restaurant
The Villa René Lalique, a grand white lady with sloping roofs where fine dining and crystal come together! Glass has been part of the history of Wingen-sur-Moder—this sleepy village in the Northern Vosges—since the 18th century; René Lalique founded the Verrerie d’Alsace there in 1922. His 1920 villa, nestled on the edge of the forest, preserves this legacy today, enhanced since 2015 by a contemporary extension designed by Mario Botta. The dining room, with its expansive windows, is bathed in crystal-clear light, featuring white carpeting, furniture by Tina Green, and accents of Lalique crystal; an imposing black sideboard opens onto the kitchens like a theater curtain, while a large team of chefs orchestrates a meticulously choreographed ballet under the watchful eye of Hervé Schmitt. In this magnificent setting, some may regret that the square tables arranged against the glass wall appear less majestic than the round ones. Trained under Harald Wohlfahrt and later a longtime collaborator of Jean-Georges Klein, Paul Stradner practices an enlightened, clean-lined classical cuisine rooted in Alsace, with that Germanic rigor that never sacrifices emotion and leaves room for a touch of daring. Since our last visit, his work has grown even more precise, balanced, and accessible. The first bites set the tone for a culinary journey that discreetly runs through the meal: the apple strudel reimagined as a foie gras tartlet evokes the chef’s Austrian roots, while the red onion, fava beans, smoked beech, and sakura blossoms take the culinary journey all the way to Japan, before a 62°C “meurette” egg smoothly brings us back to a more French horizon. Year after year, foie gras reinvents itself without ever losing its place in the restaurant’s repertoire: this time, the remarkably seasoned goose meets the freshness of rhubarb and a dark chocolate-horseradish pairing that is as unexpected as it is masterfully executed. The blue lobster, par-cooked to preserve the firmness of its flesh, pairs beautifully with white Alsatian asparagus and spruce. The skate wing, seared on a small Japanese grill and then glazed with garum, demonstrates just how skillfully the chef incorporates distant influences without obscuring the essence of the ingredient. The salmon-colored trout from Sparsbach, simply warmed, reaffirms the chef’s attachment to the region, its delicate flesh finding notes of great finesse in sansho, Riesling, and nasturtium. His latest creation, a saddle of lamb aged like charcuterie, demonstrates a more in-depth approach to the ingredient: the cooking is remarkable and the juices are rich. Jonathan Bunel’s desserts continue this pursuit of clarity: blood orange, carrot, and kalamansi play with sweetness, acidity, and bitterness. The 74% Millot chocolate, paired with wild Madagascar pepper and Oabika, rounds out the meal with a fruity and tangy intensity. The 60,000-bottle wine cellar, overseen by Romain Iltis and his team, remains a world unto itself. Villa René Lalique does not seek revolution: year after year, it cultivates the more difficult art of reinventing itself without ever betraying its identity.
Map
OPENING HOURS
- MON
- TUE
- WED
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Menu
A la carte
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