La Villa René Lalique

67290 WINGEN-SUR-MODER

17/20
Prestige Restaurant

9 PHOTOS

Chef Paul Stradner

Cooking French | Gastronomic | Local

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

110€ à 260€

Gault&Millau's review

17/20

Prestige Restaurant Crisis? What crisis? A word of advice: don't go as far as Wingen-sur-Moder without a reservation, even for lunch on weekdays, as there will probably be no tables left for you in Silvio Denz's magnificent home. This undeniable success is undoubtedly the best proof that Paul Stradner and his team are on the right track and have succeeded Jean-Georges Klein smoothly in the kitchen. But it may also be the Achilles' heel of the Villa René Lalique, a large, plush liner attracting a gilded clientele looking above all for a luxurious, refined setting. In this dining room, open on all sides to nature, the dishes, of a high standard, are undoubtedly a little too consensual, as if they had been calibrated to the extreme to please a public that doesn't necessarily want to be shaken up. We'd like to see more audacity, more madness, less academicism, even if the carrot, orange and kimchi declination and the amberjack, crab, kohlrabi and combava association launch the meal on rather high foundations, which the pike-perch with wild garlic or the duck breast with Glenturret whisky sauce, asparagus and morel mushrooms have trouble maintaining, mainly because of an excess of classicism. Nicolas Multon's meticulously-dressed desserts follow the same direction, with ultra-familiar combinations (rhubarb, vanilla and orange, coffee opera and roasted barley), while the cellar, absolutely immense and managed by the excellent Romain Iltis, has few equivalents in France.