La Villa René Lalique

67290 WINGEN-SUR-MODER
17.5/20
 Prestige Restaurant
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© Karine Faby
© Karine Faby
9 PHOTOS
Chef
Paul Stradner
Cooking
French | Gastronomic | Local
Style
Elegant | Romantic | With family
Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
110 € to 230 €

Gault&Millau's review

17.5/20
Prestige Restaurant In the diffuse light that bathes the hills of the Northern Vosges, Wingen-sur-Moder stands like a discreet haven, nestled between deep forests and winding valleys. It's here, in the heart of the regional nature park, that Lalique crystal meets Paul Stradner's cuisine, in a place where refinement is never demonstrative but always sensitive. The dining room, bathed in light through its glass walls, evokes a revisited Art Deco setting. Under the direction of Tina Green, every object is a testament to quiet luxury, displayed without ostentation. The service is regulated like a silent ballet, precise without coldness, almost choreographic in its refinement. Since taking over the reins from Jean-Georges Klein, Paul Stradner's cuisine has never looked so clean. Cleaner and clearer, it asserts a serene mastery, in which each product stands out clearly. On the plate, the sea takes on an Alsatian accent with a dish of chipirons and sardines, where the iodine is tamed by the caress of a poultry jus spiked with ink. Next comes a delicate goose foie gras, topped with honeyed kumquat confit and balanced by a milky touch of yogurt. Paul Stradner's approach is increasingly confident, with rigorous cooking to ensure a limpid expression of the product. Monkfish, with raspberry and lovage gels, combines precision and freshness in a soothing vegetal composition, while pink chuck, of American origin, surprises with its unusual tenderness; it is served with a slightly over-salted jus and a particularly crispy potato millefeuille. The lamb, for its part, is subtly imbued with Maghreb spices, but the panoufles confites, a little dry, distort the accuracy of an otherwise harmonious dish. The desserts reveal a new impetus: Jonathan Bunel signs a strawberry-acacia with herbaceous accents, overwhelming in their finesse, while the Millot chocolate cabosse blends trompe-l'œil, creamy Oabika and wild pepper sauce in a finale as powerful as it is refined. In the cellar, the tandem of Romain Iltis and Quentin Mullenders orchestrates a high-flying score, supported by an exceptional wine list - the most extensive in Alsace - and a wine service of rare elegance. The meal, full of nuances, ends with an impression of serenity. An emotion without forced brilliance, but of persistent intensity.
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Address 18 Rue Bellevue
67290 Wingen-sur-Moder
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People
  • Paul Stradner
    Paul Stradner Chef
    Paul Stradner Paul Stradner Chef
  • Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4
    Jonathan Bunel Pastry Chef
    Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Jonathan Bunel Pastry Chef
  • Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4
    Hervé Schmitt Directeur du restaurant
    Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Hervé Schmitt Directeur du restaurant
  • Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4
    Romain Iltis Head sommelier
    Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Romain Iltis Head sommelier