Auberge du Cheval Blanc

67510 CLIMBACH

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

11 PHOTOS

Chef Pascal Bastian

Cooking French | Gastronomic | Traditional

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

140€ à 180€

Gault&Millau's review

16/20

Remarkable Restaurant Immutable, indestructible! Le Cheval Blanc is the cult address in the northern Vosges, and every year it's a pilgrimage: the ever-spectacular arrival in the cobblestone courtyard, where the clatter of stagecoaches still seems to resonate; the passage through the many ornate salons, with their Edgar Mahler paintings and glass showcases; and finally, the highlight of the day, the room with its chateau-like volumes, stained glass windows, coffered ceiling and monumental fireplace. Year after year, Carole and Pascal Bastian continue to improve this jewel in the crown, in small steps, without detracting from the soul of the place. For example, they have improved exclusivity by reducing the number of tables. Although the service, almost entirely feminine, has lost its once-famous ballet allure, Carole Bastian, who has an eye for everything, superbly ensures the spectacle of serving Challans duck at the pedestal table, with accompaniments - celery, horseradish and beet - structured in presentation. Behind the scenes, Pascal Bastian's cuisine carefully combines past and present. In a play of textures, arrangements of spheres, creaminess and gel peas, the presentations are in constant progress, like the foie gras, arranged like a pastry; it is skilfully combined with smoked eel and refreshed by granny-smith apple. The sauces, which were once easily lulled into butters or reduced creams, are emancipated in a concern for lightness, such as the asparagus broth with wild garlic that accompanies the pike-perch. Since we have to quibble, perhaps some of today's fish-cooking techniques are missing here and there. The pike-perch is pan-fried, served with green asparagus from Provence and a tasty roasted shallot oil. We conclude with a combination of balanced Grand Cru dark chocolate, a light Orelys blond chocolate mousse and a white "Yrgacheffe" coffee ice cream in a play of textures a little like an opera cake. Lovers of flambé at the table will delight in crêpes flambéed with "Cheval Blanc" kirsch. The house is not insensitive to the locavore trend, since Bordier butter has been replaced by that from the Suss farm in Mattstall, while individual loaves have been swapped for a loaf to be broken up and shared. The wine list, advised by Eva Balogh, speaks for itself. The result is a classically elegant table, adapted to today's tastes, with attention to the smallest detail that transforms every meal into a real feast.

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