La Merise

Rating: 15.5
Author: Gault&Millau

7 Rue d'Eschbach, 67580 Laubach, France

15.5/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

10 PHOTOS

Chef: Christelle et Cédric Deckert
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | Healthy cooking | Traditional
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Pets allowed | Private Parking
Style: Elegant | Romantic | With family

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

98 to 225

Gault&Millau's review 2026

North of Haguenau, the villages are charming and well-organized, much like Laubach. There’s less of a folkloric atmosphere than along the Wine Route, but the same efficiency: here, this is the part of Alsace that gets up early and gets to work. Christelle and Cédric Deckert can be proud of what they’ve accomplished: their charming home, set apart from the village center in a lush, green setting, is a destination for German neighbors and well-informed locals alike. The chef’s cuisine seeks neither fleeting trends nor spectacle, but rather integrity, the essentials, and the heart of flavor. A spiced Boutrais oyster, for example, among the appetizers—such as the tomato and Cantabrian anchovy tartlet—breaks away from traditional Alsatian fare, while still evoking its qualities of subtlety and precision, establishing a cuisine that is both accessible and powerful through its technical rigor: the perfectly cooked John Dory with rhubarb, potatoes, and a vinaigrette of charred leeks, as well as the tender, pink-roasted pigeon with wasabi celery and coffee jus, demonstrate universal appeal for a clientele from prestigious households. An exemplary dessert embodying this unifying strategy, the Black Forest cake, “between tradition and modernity,” is accompanied by a small glass of Windholtz kirsch—just one of many thoughtful touches in this delightful Alsatian dining experience, led with a smile, ease, and great efficiency by Christelle Deckert. The wine cellar, while not enormous, is intriguing and well-varied, featuring prestigious producers and modern labels (such as Mélanie Pfister or Sylvie Spielmann in Alsace), featuring the big names from Burgundy and fine wines from all over (such as Montcalmès or Marlène Soria in the Pays d’Oc).