Paul STRADNER
Chef : Villa René Lalique Trained in Austria and Germany, Paul Stradner has turned the Villa René Lalique in Wingen-sur-Moder into one of Alsace’s top restaurants. The chef has been awarded the Gault&Millau d’Or for the Grand Est region.Presentation
He quickly made up for his lack of proficiency in French with another language: that of cuisine, which is universal and understood by all discerning palates. After arriving in the Northern Vosges in 2017, initially working alongside Jean-Georges Klein, Paul Stradner developed a style all his own, naturally influenced by his roots.
It all began during his apprenticeship in his hometown. “ When I was an apprentice in Graz, my hometown, I had the good fortune to work alongside a chef who had worked at Steirereck in Vienna, Austria’s most famous restaurant [rated 19/20 and five toques by Gault&Millau Austria, ed.]. “When he told me about what he’d seen in Paris, in the top restaurants where the kitchens employ fifteen to twenty chefs, it made me dream, ” Paul Stradner confides. “From that point on, my greatest wish was to one day be able to work in France. The only problem was that I didn’t speak a word of French!”
Germany’s Top Restaurants
While waiting for his chance in France, the young chef honed his skills at some of the finest establishments across the Rhine. He spent seven years at the Schwarzwaldstube in the Hotel Traube Tonbach in Baiersbronn, then took over the kitchen at the Brenners, the legendary luxury hotel in Baden-Baden, where he met his future wife. In 2016, he earned an 18/20 rating in Gault&Millau Germany. His career was taking off, but the pull of France remained strong. “I had a few possible leads, notably in Lyon, but there was still the language barrier. Friends were able to help me join Jean-Georges Klein atthe Arnsbourg in Baerenthal and then at the Villa René Lalique in Wingen, explaining that the learning process would be easier with a clientele that was often German-speaking.”
Passing the Torch
At Villa René Lalique, the agreement was clear from the start: he was to work alongside Jean-Georges Klein until the latter’s retirement, scheduled for 2020, and then succeed him. “ When I arrived at Villa Lalique in 2017, I was dazzled by this beautiful establishment and all the possibilities it offered me.” Now the head chef, he relies on a solid network of regional producers. “Alsatian produce is remarkable; I’ve built very strong relationships with many suppliers, and it’s a pleasure to work in such a beautiful restaurant.”
Northern Alsace in the Spotlight
The popularity of the hotel and restaurant shines a spotlight on Northern Alsace, a region that French tourists often know less well than the Wine Route. Located near Germany, Luxembourg, and Belgium, the establishment attracts a diverse and discerning clientele. “It’s a privilege to be able to develop my culinary style in this way—a style naturally influenced by my roots—and our German-speaking guests doubly appreciate my work as they enjoy the riches of the Alsatian terroir. ” With a score of 17.5/20 and four toques, the restaurant is now among the most elegant in the Grand Est region.
The Parisian luxury hotels will have to wait. Paul Stradner has no regrets. “I feel right at home here; the people have embraced me and given me the chance to work as I please. My wife and I can easily go to Baden-Baden, which is less than an hour from here, and at the restaurant, guests from all over show me their gratitude and satisfaction. It’s very pleasant.”