La Table de Pierre

Rating: 15
Author: Gault&Millau

2320 Route des Serres, 06570 Saint-Paul-de-Vence, France

15/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

9 PHOTOS

Cooking: French | Local | Provençale
Style: Romantic

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

99 to 175

Gault&Millau's review 2026

Along a small, winding road that climbs toward the picture-perfect village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence, the Mas de Pierre appears around a bend, discreetly nestled in its Mediterranean setting. This Relais & Châteaux resort features bastides set amidst a park that combines a vegetable garden, a spa, and a lagoon-style pool lined with sand. Three restaurants round out the experience, including La Table de Pierre, the estate’s gourmet haven. From the open kitchen overlooking the dining room, Breton chef Paul Gouel has taken over from Rodolphe Loury. Centered around three natural, ingredient-focused menus—offering four, five, and six courses at €99, €125, and €175—the dining experience unfolds with seamless elegance. Right from the start, the amuse-bouches are elegant and flavorful, followed by the “Instant Provençal”—in this case, a tartare of red shrimp from Le Grau-du-Roi, drizzled with fig vinegar infused with the juice from the heads and shells. Next comes the artichoke ravioli, its dough deriving its color from the artichoke’s own chlorophyll, filled with Colonnata bacon and set atop a leaf-based emulsion that conceals a tangy juniper berry gel. Next come the fried potato gnocchi, flavored with a tarragon pistou from the estate and enhanced with a few zest strips of Menton lemon. The veal tenderloin is pan-roasted with caramelized onions, the center still pink. A first sauce gently coats the meat—a full-bodied jus made with juice-filled onions—followed by a harissa sauce that gently enhances its flavors. The white eggplant, harvested on the estate, is prepared in two ways. First as a caviar, in small dabs, then as a cylinder filled with eggplant, harissa, and anchovies, for a natural saltiness. Finally, served at the table, a brilliantly colored vegetable reduction that could easily be mistaken for veal stock, even though it’s entirely plant-based. At this point, it’s hard to resist the cheese cart, whether the cheeses come from Peymeinade or a little further afield. They pair perfectly with the house-baked sourdough breads, made from a blend of flours whose recipe the chef keeps secret. Next come the desserts by pastry chef Manon Isnard. First, the freshness of a lavender-infused yogurt, served over a Queen Claude plum compote, offering a delicate interlude before the grand chocolate finale. A 70% chocolate cream and a second cream with grains are revealed in layers, separated by thin, crispy wafers, all complemented by a blond chocolate ice cream infused with a premium whiskey. The wine cellar is impressive, overseen by an attentive head sommelier, while the service, flawless in every detail, is equally outstanding.