It's time to blossom, to reap the rewards of so much effort and investment at the foot of Château Smith Haut-Lafitte. Nicolas Masse is an acclaimed chef, now reaching the highest ranks, captain of an ultra-performing team and general-in-chief of a restaurant that caters to all the desires of the fine clientele of Les Sources de Caudalie. At La Grand'Vigne, the flagship, everything is in place: welcome, service, decor in harmony with the winegrowing environment, ceremonial that's just right without being heavy-handed, there's not a mission or gesture that isn't carried out correctly. The first course is extraordinary and symbolic: three layers, three ingredients, one dish, Anton style: peas, fresh goat's cheese, caviar. And bam! Praise for simplicity and a representation of Nicolas Masse's cuisine today, going for the essential, the truth of the product, the purity, the quintessence, without falbalas, little dots, little heaps.... Once you've got the hang of it, you're ready to roll: superbly cooked white asparagus in a salt crust, nasturtium pesto, peel ice cream (perhaps a grain of sugar too much), brill with a unilateral aillet, celtuce, beurre noisette with cockles in marinière, melting lamb, rack, saddle, stuffed morel mushroom, cromesquis, just right, sober, efficient and very gourmet. Here, we're not competing, we're pleasing our guests. Pastry chef Anthony Chenoz takes over in harmony with a rhubarb "rose des vignes" dessert in a very pleasing interplay of textures. In the cellar, everything from Smith Haut Lafitte is perfectly presented by the expert and precise sommelier Aurélien Farrouil, a vibrant advocate of the Bordeaux cause, in a tasteful cellar that's not too showy, with, for example, some excellent champagnes from proprietors (Agrappart, Peeters...).