L'Observatoire du Gabriel

Rating: 15.5
Author: Gault&Millau

33000 BORDEAUX

15.5/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

10 PHOTOS

Chef: Bertrand Noeureuil
Cooking: French | Healthy cooking | Signature cuisine
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Pets allowed
Style: Romantic

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

160 to 250

Gault&Millau's review 2026

Bertrand Noeureuil has found fulfillment in Bordeaux, just as his mentor Arnaud Donckele anticipated when they worked together at Plénitude. The talent, the sense of taste, the sense of well-being, both in the hands and in the head, found in this superb historic square on the banks of the Garonne, and in this house with great ambitions, give cause for optimism. This is confirmed on the plate, with a beautiful touch, subtlety and major agreements, on girondine shad and osciètre caviar, on marinated asparagus with a green Pyrenean liqueur, on delicate sardine goujonnettes in a sweet chilli artichoke soup with saline herbs.. This is inspired cuisine, respectful of a regional and gourmet history, and "tasty" dishes such as hake mimosa, morels and razor clams, or chicken breast with Darblay blood and julienne sauce and sauternes vinegar, all part of a great €240 menu that, in this last spring, concludes with a timbale of strawberries and ewe's curd. Service and ambiance are modern and precise, and the cellar is naturally strong in Bordeaux, but well inspired by most regions.