Irwin

Rating: 15
Author: Gault&Millau

75008 PARIS

15/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

10 PHOTOS

Chef: Irwin Durand
Cooking: French | Gastronomic

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

68 to 160

Gault&Millau's review 2026

We discovered him at Le Bien Aimé and then as chef at Alan Geaam, in the 16ᵉ arrondissement, where we awarded him three toques and the title of Jeune Talent for his already remarkable work. After a few years at the helm of Guy Savoy's Chiberta, Irwin Durand, at the turn of his 35s, is finally at home in the Triangle d'Or where he wanted to settle, imagining a kitchen that opens onto a first room with a large table d'hôtes, while the main room, with its modern, well-kept fittings (the walls covered in burnt wood are of the most beautiful effect), hosts a few well-spaced tables. Comfortably seated on one of the concave banquettes, you can let yourself be carried away by the cuisine of this lover of produce, who offers a dazzling version of langoustine with caviar, cream infused with langoustine bisque and green beans, before an original and personal work on tuna, barely warmed, with a virgin sauce of salicornia and zucchinis. Remarkable mastery of the cooking of the quail, with its burnt batavia leaf and molasses-date paste, top-notch desserts by Tessa Ponzo, service in the right tempo, a rather short cellar, but sweeping all the great French regions.