The level of contrast remains strong, ensuring that everyone can appreciate the restaurant’s essence and philosophy. The cuisine is lively and inventive, now led by Antoine Perchoc, the former sous chef who took the helm this spring. No surprises here in this €89 four-course business lunch menu: tomato stuffed with vegetables, seared tuna (one side only) with ponzu-infused bone juice and sorrel velouté, confit turbot with peas, fava beans, and a shellfish emulsion, rhubarb with a textural twist, raw cream ice cream, and hibiscus sauce. The overall experience leaves you feeling like you’re in the right place to experience contemporary Parisian cuisine; the menu is quite extensive, the service is polished, and the wine cellar features selections from all regions.