There’s no trace of wildness at Saint-Augustin; on the contrary, the dishes offer a harmonious mildness that doesn’t lack character: flame-grilled sardines with lemon, cucumber, cilantro, and guindillas; line-caught whitefish with roasted eggplant, shellfish, saffron-infused sauce, and almond seasoning; field-grown strawberries with pistachio ganache—a perfectly executed sequence from a concise seasonal menu, to which one can add cheeses from Delacour.