Seated at the bar or at a table, you're immediately immersed in the energy of the place. Red and black hanging lights create a hushed ambience, punctuated by the light wood and blue of the counter. Upstairs, a thrift shop reminds us that Camille Andrieux, owner and clothing designer, is as much about style as she is about hospitality. She installs, advises on wines and brings the dining room to life, while in the kitchen her husband, Eric Fontanini, a former chef at Ducasse, sends out well-stocked plates. The regressive brioche croque-monsieur, the perfectly rosy duck breast spiced up with figs and cardamom, or the stuffed cabbage that won a French championship. Generous cuisine, embodied service and a surprisingly committed cellar. Starter, main course and dessert from €60.