The culmination of a rich career, Simon Horwitz's Elmer is a compilation of experiences with the best, from Gagnaire to Grébaut to Sylvestre Wahid. Here, the chef imagines a modern, welcoming vision of gastronomy, putting the big dishes in the small. Seated at a canteen-style table, facing the open kitchen, you'll discover inventive combinations, such as beef tartare rolled in a beet leaf, smoked eel, pickled chanterelle mushrooms and watercress, barbecued cod back, black garlic paste and preserved lemon sauce, a fine Gâtinais squab barbecued on the trunk, lacquered thighs and reduced jus, and an apricot, honey and rosemary tart.