Three years ago, a top young chef, Rémi Genot, took over the kitchens of this renowned wine village classic. His rise is clear, and people are starting to come from far and wide to sample his exploits. Unfortunately, there's no choice and no à la carte menu, just a single 4-course (lunchtime only) to 6-course menu from €80 to €120. The style is elegant, the link with the region is strong, and the noble products are used to good effect, without being too easy: asparagus with shellfish and samphire, snails and pig's trotters, morel stuffed with foie gras and celery, Quercy lamb with asparagus and olive panisse... A serious, cutting-edge cellar with many great Burgundy wines.