At the foot of the vineyards, the view from the dining room of Volnay and Pommard immediately sets the stakes. In a bright, modern setting, the chef brings local traditions back to life, with a well-chosen product at an appropriate price. The €28 Bourguignon menu is a solid option, with its well-crafted classics, traditional eggs meurette, pike mousseline and lobster sauce, beef cheek bourguignon, artisanal blackcurrant sorbet. In the cellar, Linda Gentile - who was France's best young sommelier - offers a fine selection of Burgundy and other regions. Competitive prices.