Where to eat a good quenelle?
Long confined to Lyon's bouchons, the quenelle can be enjoyed in both its classic and contemporary versions. Here's a roundup of the best places to try it.
Moist, topped with sauce and deeply rooted in France's culinary heritage, the quenelle is no longer confined to its native Lyon. From Lyon to Paris, via Nantes and Strasbourg, quenelles now feature on the menus of fine restaurants as well as more confidential addresses, where chefs reinterpret them with skill and gourmandise. Pike quenelle, of course, but also poultry liver quenelle, or quenelle inspired by the house: here's an overview of the addresses where you can enjoy this great classic, between respect for tradition and bold variations.
Le Manoir de la Régate, Nantes
Le Manoir de la Régate (3 toques) in Nantes is an ode to the Erdre River and its treasures. Mathieu Pérou, who won the Terroir d'Exception award at the Gault&Millau Tour Loire in 2022, cooks freshwater fish with brio. One of his signature dishes is carp quenelle with shiso, drizzled with oxtail broth. A delicate, poetic and powerful proposition that systematically astounds diners with its mastery.
- Where? 155 route de Gachet, 44300 Nantes
- See Gault&Millau's review of Le Manoir de la Régate
L'Ancienne Auberge, Vonnas
Pike quenelle has always been one of the signature dishes of the Maison Georges Blanc. "Present all year round at the Restaurant l'Ancienne Auberge (2 toques), in Vonnas, this dish is a direct heritage of the cuisine of the Mères Lyonnaises. But the renown of this dish would be nothing without the lobster sauce that accompanies it. A rich, generous sauce enhanced by Crème de Bresse AOP, much appreciated by our clientele", explains the restaurant, which can accommodate up to 250 diners.
- Where? 3 Place du Marché, 01540 Vonnas
- See Gault&Millau's review of L'Ancienne Auberge
Daniel et Denise, Lyon
In his restaurants Daniel & Denise (2 toques), Meilleur Ouvrier de France Joseph Viola offers a number of Lyonnais specialties, starting with pike quenelle with Nantua sauce. "The quenelle has the particularity of being spoon-molded and made with more pike than breadcrumbs. This recipe gives it a more pronounced pike flavor, while remaining airy and gourmet," says the restaurant.
- Where? 156 Rue De Créqui, 69003 Lyon
- See Gault&Millau's review of Daniel et Denise
Chez Yvonne, Strasbourg
While the quenelle is a specialty of the bouchon lyonnais, the winstub Chez Yvonne (1 toque), in Strasbourg, has adapted the recipe to make it one of its signatures. Here, the quenelle is revisited "with liver and spices, steamed before being snacked on at serving time", explains the chef. It is then accompanied by a cream sauce, and served with sautéed potatoes and a green salad.
- Where? 10 Rue du Sanglier, 67000 Strasbourg
- See Gault&Millau's review of Chez Yvonne
Maison Medard, Boulleret
At Chez Maison Medard (2 toques), Julien Medard proposes a pretty plate based around sturgeon and Sologne caviar, where the fish is worked as a cromesquis but also as a quenelle, served with fennel sauerkraut. A lovely contrast between the roundness of the fish and the aniseed-flavored freshness of the vegetable, giving the traditional quenelle a youthful twist.
- Where? 19 place des Tilleuls, 18240 Boulleret
- See Gault&Millau's review of Maison Medard
Aux Lyonnais, in Paris
It's a rare Parisian case where the quenelle doesn't play the nostalgia card, but rather that of technical precision. At Aux Lyonnais (1 toque), the pike quenelle remains faithful to the Lyonnais tradition: airy texture, controlled cooking, clean, well-mixed Nantua sauce. A classic executed with rigor, in a house that loudly proclaims its regional roots.
- Where? 32 rue Saint-Marc, 75002 Paris
- See Gault&Millau's review of Aux Lyonnais
Le Café des Fédérations, Lyon
Café des Fédérations is a classic bouchon, where the quenelle is a signature dish. Here, it stays true to tradition: pike, oven-baked, rich langoustine sauce. A reassuring, almost unchanging version that continues to seduce locals and visitors alike.
- Where? 8-9 Rue Major Martin, 69001 Lyon
- See the Gault&Millau review of Le Café des Fédérations
Au Petit Bouchon - Chez Georges, Lyon
Au Petit Bouchon - Chez Georges (1 toque), in Lyon, perpetuates the spirit of the no-frills bouchon. At this confidential Presqu'île address, pike quenelle is a regular feature on the menu, served in a very classic reading, topped with a generous lobster sauce. A frank, gourmet quenelle, in the image of a restaurant that prides itself on sincere, popular Lyonnais cuisine.
- Where? 8 Rue du Garet, 69001 Lyon
- See Gault&Millau's review of Au Petit Bouchon - Chez Georges
