In this old-school bistro setting—with mirrors, burgundy-colored bench seats, and vintage chandeliers—the chef carries on the Lyon “bouchon” tradition. Not quite authentic, but full of good intentions and refined in its details, even if the classics still have room for improvement: pike quenelle with crayfish in a Nantes-style sauce, large Burgundy snails, andouillette with veal sweetbreads from Bobosse and mustard cream, blood sausage, cooked and raw apples, veal liver, baby potatoes, and a vinegar-based jus. Before dessert, we indulge in a Saint-Marcellin from Mère Richard, and to finish, the floating island with pink pralines or a small pot of jasmine tea from Alain Chapel. Wines by the glass and in Lyon-style jugs, as well as a decent selection of Beaujolais.