L'Astrance

Rating: 18
Author: Gault&Millau

75016 PARIS

18/20
Prestige Restaurant

BOOK

6 PHOTOS

Chef: Pascal Barbot
Cooking: Signature cuisine
Services: Access for people with disabilities
Style: Romantic

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

85 to 285

Gault&Millau's review 2026

Finesse and intelligence: at L'Astrance, we've always taken a step up. We evacuate the ordinary, the heavy, the universal attraction towards the common. In the rue de Longchamp dining room, which forty years ago was Joël Robuchon's Jamin, Pascal Barbot sets the mood, purer, healthier, in just a few strokes: with scallops, oysters stiffened in the shell, miso and beef marrow, a bridge between Brittany and Japan, one more, perfectly successful for this chef steeped in both cultures for as long as he can remember. A small spoonful of koshi-hikari rice with bonne femme sauce to refresh the palate before this marvel of mackerel, supple and firm at the same time, just licked by the flame, a beurre blanc soja and three dots of vegetables, orange origami beet, leek and carrot. Always purity, sobriety, which doesn't exclude generosity, for example with a mallard duck jus bigarade, perfectly cooked, rare but not bloody, with an irresistible roast. The chef, with his accomplice and partner Christophe Rohart, always as fair, close and elegant in the dining room, finally came out of the clouds in 2025, after having sorted out the problems inherent in their new address, and he has lost none of his vista, still capable of dazzling moments, like this great peanut sorrel dessert, a tour de force for dosing sweetness, freshness and flavor in unprecedented harmony, to make Astrance a table apart once again (and at this level, the bill really isn't frightening). The cellar is just like the plate: partisan, singular and yet ecumenical between old and new, always in the extreme quality, bringing together for example Clusel-Roch Gangloff and Souhaut under the Rhône chapter, Bobinet Germain and Clos Rougeard under that of the Loire.