5 New Must-Try Restaurants to Discover This Summer

From Toulon to Biarritz, via Dunkirk, Strasbourg, and Rennes, the reviewers at Gault&Millau have identified five restaurants you should book right away this summer.

Marc Esquerré Published today at 13:57

From Toulon to Biarritz, via Dunkirk, Strasbourg, and Rennes, the reviewers at Gault&Millau have spotted new spots you’ll want to book right away. Here are the five top picks for this summer.

Shanael in Toulon (83)

We last saw Anthony Denon at Le Burgundy in Paris, where he was on the verge of earning three toques. We find him again in Toulon, as talented as ever, but completely transformed—free and thriving. By taking over this institution (Au Sourd), which he has transformed into a cozy and distinguished dining room, he has infused it with a chic and relaxed atmosphere unlike anything the city has seen before. Better yet, he joins in the fun by serving dishes himself, never hesitating to assist his young, composed, well-trained, and efficient all-female team. The cuisine? Fresh, beautiful, and devilishly good, with a well-judged emphasis on plant-based ingredients: charcoal-grilled leeks, mussels, and turmeric-spiced sea urchin; smoked pigeon with red cabbage—an exquisite cut of meat, roasted in butter, with the red cabbage serving as both a pairing and a seasoning, while also binding the sauce in the style of salmis. A superb dish followed by a compelling dessert—kiwi infused with Timut pepper and a light meringue—created by a former chef de partie at Les Oliviers de Bandol. The wine list skims the region a bit too lightly without really delving in, but the launch of this beautiful new restaurant is very promising.

15/20 (3 toques)
Where? 10 rue Molière, 83000 Toulon
See the Gault&Millau review of Shanael

Renée in Dunkirk (59)

After several years working with Guy Savoy and Thierry Marx, Chef Charles Bruneval, winner of the Gault&Millau Award, has returned to his native region. Named in honor of his grandmother Renée, this is a place to enjoy a convivial experience in a family-friendly atmosphere with warm, modern décor. Just a stone’s throw from the seawall, the chef offers a refined selection of distinctive ingredients from the Côte d’Opale, showcasing local producers and farmers to create simple yet meticulously crafted dishes. Local artisans are also celebrated through the pottery, tables, and other decorative elements that define the restaurant’s identity. Scallops, razor clams with garlic butter, blue lobster from Audresselles, and the must-try shrimp croquettes perfectly represent this region’s fresh and abundant produce. Dunkerque chanterelles in vin jaune, Steenvoorde squab, and veal sweetbreads are served with—or, as some regulars already say, “accompany”—a now-essential smoked potato emulsion prepared using techniques well-known in the region. Food lovers will be tempted, when in season, by hare à la royale, paired with one of the fine wines on the menu. The sea-infused blueberry pavlova or the chocolate mousse, based on Grandma Renée’s recipe, round out this meal, which is enjoyed by both local and international guests, with a few Flemish and Walloon touches. The wine cellar, while not enormous, is well-stocked to meet guests’ needs.

13/20 (2 toques)
Where? 12 Place Paul Asseman, 59140 Dunkirk
See the Gault&Millau review of Renée

Nicolas Multon in Strasbourg (67)

Pastry chef Nicolas Multon left the Villa René Lalique to open, with the help of Carine Clément, a tasting room in an 18th-century building located near Place Gutenberg. The narrow building spans several levels: the pastry shop is on the ground floor, and the tasting room is on the first floor, featuring a simple, contemporary decor in shades of greige. The “pastry kitchen”—a unique concept—features a strong emphasis on plant-based ingredients and a commitment to locally sourced produce. The pastries are elegantly presented, sometimes in layered arrangements, highlighted by inventive flavors that never lose sight of indulgence. Butternut squash creates a milky-tangy harmony with mushrooms, burrata, and pickles, served in a bold dish made of compressed croissant dough—structured on top and, underneath, in a bowl garnished with butternut squash tagliatelle and a well-balanced vadouvan velouté. Next, diners are treated to caramelized Roscoff onions resting on spinach with ginger and lemon, enhanced by thin bacon bits, a light foam, and a crispy puff pastry lattice. The three-toque-level desserts are prepared just as they would be in a restaurant. The warm chocolate tart comes straight out of the oven, topped with nib ice cream. The chef, out in the dining room, then pours a sweet-and-tangy cocoa pod syrup over it, elevating the dish to the realm of haute pâtisserie. Chestnuts in various textures are accented with thin slices of mushrooms, evoking a stroll through the forest. The beverage menu embraces a thoughtful brevity: a few signature French drinks and Alsatian wines chosen for their precision, a micro-selection of premium teas—including a remarkable Miyazaki shincha— three so-called gourmet coffees, roasted by Reck and served in a French press, and an intense, well-balanced hot chocolate, which has established itself here as the Strasbourg benchmark in this category.

13/20 (2 toques)
Where? 31 rue du Vieux Marché aux Poissons, 67000 Strasbourg
See the Gault&Millau review of Nicolas Multon

Jozy in Rennes (35)

With extensive international experience, Noé Viviès and Lucy Rosedale have taken over a former bistro, renovating it with warmth by focusing on stone, wood, and pleasant lighting. The cuisine—playful, dynamic, and impeccably executed—shines through dishes with vibrant, perfectly balanced flavors. The talent is undeniable! This is evident in the thin slices of raw horse mackerel, which allow Noé to delicately play with bitterness, acidity (clementine, calamansi, kumquat), and saltiness. Next, the pollock, seared on one side on the grill, is complemented by a subtle mussel emulsion with hints of saffron. Carrots and parsley chlorophyll round out the dish. Finally, the dessert—unassuming and without fanfare—confirms the brilliance of this new restaurant with a pairing of pear, cookie, spices, and bay leaf ice cream. The female staff is cheerful and attentive. As for the wine cellar, passionately curated by Lucy, it hits the mark with selections such as the Domaine de l’Alezan Côtes-du-Rhône and Mathilde Magne’s Anjou.

13.5/20 (2 toques)
Where? 42 Rue Vasselot, 35000 Rennes
See the Gault&Millau review of Jozy

Dialogues in Biarritz (64)

Right in the heart of Biarritz, between the Gare du Midi and Place Clémenceau, chefs Adrien Zedda and Thomas Bouanich—who moved from Lyon to the Basque Country—offer a primarily plant-based cuisine featuring ingredients carefully selected according to the season, enhanced with local seafood and prioritizing locally sourced products. The dining experience unfolds in 4 or 7 “courses,” featuring creations such as fresh cheese espuma, potato chips on a bed of scallions, green asparagus from Mallemort, yuzu mousse, gravlax sea bass, endive with onion compote and cardamom sauce, or the signature dish featuring celery cooked for 12 hours, potato gnocchi, celery jus with coffee, and herb-infused oil. We finish on a sweet note with a quenelle filled with vanilla juice, a shell of sugar caramelized to order, and crème anglaise made by the pastry chef from Lyon. Wine pairings are selected from a list of 500 wines, ranging from prestigious labels to lesser-known regional vintages.