Shanael

Rating: 15
Author: Gault&Millau

83000 TOULON

15/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

5 PHOTOS

Chef: Anthony Denon
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | Modern
Style: Elegant | Romantic

Gault&Millau's review 2026

We had left Anthony Denon at the Burgundy in the Hôtel Baudelaire, where he was already verging on three toques, as an excellent executor of a somewhat smooth cuisine. We find him back at home, as good as ever, but completely changed: by moving closer to his in-laws, he's free, at home, and blossoming. By taking over this institution (Au Sourd) in the heart of Toulon, which he has transformed into a cosy, distinguished salon, he is instilling a chic, relaxed spirit at a level previously unknown in town. Better still, he takes part in the festivities by presenting the dishes himself, not hesitating to assist his young, wise, well-trained and efficient team of women. The cuisine? Fresh, pretty and devilishly successful, rightly insisting on vegetal ingredients: braised leeks, mussels and turmeric with sea urchin condiment, smoked pigeon and red cabbage, an exquisite meat, roasted in butter, with red cabbage as a partner and condiment, but also binding the salmis-style sauce, a great dish that continues with the very convincing dessert, timut-infused kiwi and light meringue, by a former chef de partie from Les Oliviers de Bandol. The cellar still flies over the region a little too much without really delving into it, but the start of this new fine table is very promising.