These restaurants offer magnificent carts of local cheeses
Need a little space between the main course and dessert? Here are a few restaurants that have made the cheese platter a creation in its own right, a true testament to a rich, gourmet region.
A complete restaurant menu often consists of a starter, main course and dessert. But for those with a sweet tooth, or those who prefer milky pleasures to sweet treats, a few pieces of cheese can fit right in. hard, soft, full-bodied or mild, from Brittany or Auvergne, cheeses are as varied and complex as any dish. Gault&Millau has compiled a non-exhaustive list of restaurants offering magnificent platters of local cheeses all over France.
La Pomme d'Api, Saint-Pol-de-Léon
In their restaurant La Pomme d'Api, recently awarded a 4ᵉ toque by Gault&Millau, Jérémie Le Calvez and Jessica Chelala focus as much as possible on local know-how. Witness the 100% Breton cheese platter offered at the gourmet restaurant, selected by Sten Marc, affineur in Guipavas. "He ages his cheeses patiently, in his cellar or in the Penfeld fort in Brest, where the natural hygrometry works wonders," confides Jérémie Le Calvez, adding that customers often don't expect such a wealth of local produce.
- Where? 5 rue Saint-Yves, 29250 Saint-Pol-de-Léon
- See Gault&Millau's review of La
Pomme d'Api
La Bouitte, in Saint-Martin-de-Belleville
The cheese platter at La Bouitte (4 toques) is certainly one of the finest you'll ever see. Presented like a multi-layered pièce montée, it celebrates the finest Savoy cheeses, from the best-known to the most unusual and confidential. Beaufort AOP du Nant Brun, Bleu de Termignon, Persillé de Tignes, Sérac des vallons du Lou... The hardest part will certainly be choosing among all these Savoyard treasures carefully selected by the Meilleur family.
- Where to find them? Hameau de Saint-Marcel, 73440 Saint-Martin-de-Belleville
- See Gault&Millau's review of La Bouitte
L'Observatoire, Bordeaux
at L'Observatoire, the cheese platter is like an initiation tour. Even before tasting, guests are invited to descend into the cellar, a cosy setting piled high with farmhouse breads, generous wheels of cheese and hand-crafted crockery from the Martres-Tolosane earthenware factory. The deliberately narrow selection follows the Garonne up to the Pyrenees, highlighting a dozen farmhouse cheeses, many of them little-known. Ewes, goats and cows rub shoulders with intriguing names such as Cul fondu, Ardiak, Indarika, Crabotin d'Aydius and Hercule. It's an experience in its own right, designed as a moment of sharing and discovery, and one that you'll want to extend thanks to a carefully selected glass list, featuring Port, Madeira, Jura and Gaillac wines.
- Where? 10 pl. de la Bourse, 33000 Bordeaux
- See Gault&Millau's review of l'Observatoire du Gabriel
Le Clos des Sens, Annecy-le-Vieux
If Franck Derouet 's Le Clos des Sens (4 toques) is renowned for its lakeside, plant-based cuisine, inspired by the days of Laurent Petit, the restaurant is not to be outdone in its selection of cheeses, presented on a magnificent spruce board. A total of 140 cheese references are offered throughout the year, depending on the season, including the indisputable Savoy PDO cheeses as well as the region's more confidential cheeses. There are a few nuggets in particular, such as Bleu de Termignon, produced in very small quantities from June to September, at an altitude of 2,300 metres!
- Where? 13 rue Jean-Mermoz, 74940 Annecy-le-Vieux
- See Gault&Millau's review of Le Clos des Sens
La Table - Christophe Hay & Loïs Bée, in Ardon
Loïs Bée, Grand de Demain 2026, works as much as possible with local producers, between Touraine and Sologne. And cheeses are no exception! Guests can discover the richness of the terroir, including cheeses from the Ranch des Roves, in Ligny-le-Ribault, which raises Rove goats. "It's a breed that originated in the south of France, but thrives in Sologne," explains venue manager Chloé Matter. "They offer us a selection of fresh and mature cheeses, or flavored with cherry leaf or pepper," she adds. Based in Touraine, Fromagerie de Lucie also supplies them with cheeses made in Touraine from alpine cow's milk. Like Tuffeau or Clos Madame, while Ferme de Bréviande, specialized in goat breeding, offers raw-milk goat cheeses, "like cœur garni de cœur or trèfle du Perche, an ashy cheese". To accompany this fine platter, the restaurant offers candied pine cone buds from L'Or des Bois pickers in Loches, or a homemade cotignac, a quince-based jelly, a specialty of Orléans.
- Where? 200 allée des 4 Vents, 45160 Ardon
- See Gault&Millau's review of La Table - Christophe Hay & Loïs Bée
Le Manoir du Lys, in Bagnoles-de-l'Orne
At Le Manoir du Lys (3 toques), in Bagnoles-de-l'Orne, the cheeseboard is a fervent celebration of Norman identity. Offered year-round, the selection features a dozen varieties, with a few seasonal variations on tommes. "The great classics are there - camembert fermier with its assertive character, livarot, pont-l'Évêque, cœur de Neufchâtel - sourced from loyal producers, including Maison Gillot, but also from a neighbouring artisanwho works with organic farming.clémence Jourdain, Maître d'hôtel at Le Manoir du Lys, explains: "We sourceour Camembert from loyal producers, such as Maison Gillot, but also from a neighboring organic farmer, whose cows are fed exclusively on hay, giving the Camembert a singular aromatic depth. Rarer in the region, Bleu de Saint-Jean, matured for four to six weeks with raw milk by Ferme de la Talboissière, brings a bold touch to the platter, alongsidep'tit Michelot, a small tomme with a washed rind, intensely perfumed and washed several times a week. "A few goat's cheeses from a farm ten minutes away complete the picture," adds the young woman. To accompany this very local score, the chef prepares his own jams (quince, apple jelly or morello cherry from the orchard, depending on the season) and three homemade breads, including a particularly recommended seed bread.
- Where to eat? Route de Juvigny, 61140 Bagnoles-de-l'Orne
- See Gault&Millau's review of Le Manoir du Lys
Restaurant William Frachot, Dijon
At Restaurant William Frachot (3 toques), the cheese cart is a tribute to Burgundy. Offered on a custom-designed display, they are divided into three categories:we have a first section with goat's cheeses, a second with cow's cheeses and, in between, a small presentation of ewe's cheeses, which are few and far between in the region", stresses Maxime Brunet.gion", explains Maxime Brunet, sommelier and room manager, before adding that the cheeses are matured on site and the cancoillotte is homemade. "This selection, which "varies from 30 to 60 cheeses depending on the season", is the fruit of lengthy exchanges with producers and local cheesemakers. "As part of our commitment to consistency and communication, our teams regularly visit farms and producers to better understand the production methods, maturing processes and history of each cheese. These encounters enable us to offer a masterful cheese cart, told in the dining room, and faithful to the work of the artisans who bring Burgundy's terroir to life", also emphasizes Inès Frachot. "The tray is assembled and disassembled with each service to avoid loss, and accompanied by homemade jams, honey, and of course careful pairings with wine, beer or even sake. We also offer bread made on the premises", explains Maxime Brunet, who adds that some of the cheeses are also available for breakfast for hotel residents.
- Where? 5 rue Michelet, 21000 Dijon
- See the Gault&Millau review of Restaurant William Frachot
Restaurant les Loges, Lyon
Anthony Bonnet, of Les Loges restaurant (3 toques) in Lyon, is a big fan of local produce. His cheese platter is no exception, with a cart centered on Lyon's terroir, evolving with the seasons. A total of seven cheeses are on offer, including "sheep's milk cheeses from Bergerie des Mollières, as well as those from Ferme de Piegay, which has been producing cow's milk cheeses for four generations in a sustainable approach, both located in the Monts du Lyonnais."For his selection, Anthony Bonnet works closely with Hervé Mons, Meilleur Ouvrier de France fromager and affineur in Lyon. To complete the picture, the cheeses can be accompanied by "Miel de Cour des Loges infused with ginger, a homemade quince paste, as well as a pear and spice condiment."
- Where? 6 rue du Bœuf, 69005 Lyon
- See Gault&Millau's review of Les Loges
La Table d'Olivier Nasti, Kaysersberg
at La Table d'Olivier Nasti (5 toques and Chef of the Year 2023), cheese is a natural part of an approach deeply rooted in Alsace's terroir. Far from an overcrowded cart, the chef offers a platter of carefully selected local cheeses, mostly from local farms and artisans. Munster worked in different expressions, Alsatian tommes matured with hay, flowers or subtle perfumes, contemporary creations such as Pavé de Strasbourg or beechwood-smoked cheeses make up a coherent score, guided by the season and maturity of the products. Conceived as an extension of the cuisine, this platter tells the story of Alsace cheesemaking in all its diversity, between tradition, artisanal know-how and more daring touches, to conclude the meal on a note that is both gourmet and distinctive.
- Where to eat? Le Chambard, 13 rue du Général de Gaulle, 68240 Kaysersberg
- See Gault&Millau's review of La Table d'Olivier Nasti
Bacôve, Saint-Omer
At Bacôve (3 toques), in Saint-Omer, Camille Delcroix makes it a point of honor to showcase northern produce. In addition to carrots from Tilques and juniper from Houlle, other treasures are showcased, notably on the cheese cart. "We source our cheeses from Fromagerie Philippe Olivier, which has several stores in Lille and elsewhere, now run by the son, Romain," stresses the chef. "In particular, we have four variations of Maroilles, an all-in-cream, Cœur du Boulonnais... Although I must admit that there's also Saint-Nectaire or Morbier du Jura, because I love those," he confesses.
- Where? 8 rue Caventou, 62500 Saint-Omer
- See the Gault&Millau review of Bacôve
