Restaurant Bartholdi

Rating: 12
Author: Gault&Millau

68000 COLMAR

12/20
Gourmet Restaurant

BOOK

6 PHOTOS

Cooking: French | Traditional
Style: Bistro/Brasserie | With family

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

Gault&Millau's review 2026

Since spring 2025, the Bartholdi has been restored to its former glory by Éric Girardin (La Maison des Têtes). You enter as if in a refurbished brasserie, with a patina that's not sad: wood panelling up to support height, walls painted off-white, matching tablecloths, napkins folded in the old-fashioned way as if time had no hold on them, chairs with small pierced hearts, a collection of brassware and, at the back, a shady terrace that's delicious in the summer heat. At lunchtime, the office clientele gather in a vast, serene dining room, supported by a young, motivated team, where Alsatian cuisine is expressed without unnecessary folklore or superfluity. The menu lines up sauerkraut and bæckeoffe without seeking the exhaustiveness of the winstubs, and asserts an assumed domestic vein: beef cheeks, veal quasi or breast rolls. A welcome rarity is the offal section, which confesses its loyalty to straightforward dishes. The fish matelote (trout, pike-perch, pike in an airy cake), served in fillets with Alsatian noodles, features clean cooking and a sauce flecked with green oil, more cream than fumet. The quasi de veau is simply pan-fried but tender, with tasty lentils impregnated with a precise, reduced jus. The apricot-glazed vacherin with crémant sorbet is enhanced by a fresh vanilla-rimmed chantilly and blade-thin meringue tuiles for a highly seductive finish. The chocolate mousse features three timbales with a taste of grand cru ideally set and peaches in two textures, but the vanilla ice cream, with its dubiously crafted look and perfume, detracts from the overall effect. As for the wines, Alsace leads the way, with an exhaustive range of Rieslings featuring great names and vintages of fine amplitude. As for the short selection by the glass, it logically favors terroir with a well-chosen southern touch. You'll leave feeling reassured: a brasserie run by a great, attentive chef, where the modest cuisine, in the best sense of the word, remains professional, straightforward and precise.