Brasserie Historique - La Maison des Têtes

68000 COLMAR

13.5/20
Chef's Restaurant

Chef Éric Girardin

Cooking French | healthy | Modern

Services | Accomodation | Children's menu | Disabled access | To go

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

21€ à 25€

Gault&Millau's review

13.5/20

Chef's Restaurant When Marilyn and Éric Girardin took over this historic house nine years ago, with its facade adorned with 106 carved masks, they succeeded in lightening the heavy but warm wood decor with hanging lamps and leather chairs of contemporary design, without detracting from the soul of the place. With tables set far apart and screened in, this brasserie offers an exclusive intimacy and comfort that appeals to the fine Relais & Châteaux clientele. During the summer months, don't miss the bohemian charm and freshness of the hotel's paved courtyard. The brasserie rather than winstub menu features just two typical Alsatian dishes: sauerkraut and bæckeoffe, both of which are very well prepared. Other dishes, such as the tender trout from Nathalie Guidat in Orbey, highlighted by citrus fruits, take advantage of products from producers who supply the Girardin restaurant. While the pâté en croûte's stuffing, while artisanal and tasty, seemed a little porky and compact, our favorite dish was the whole kidney, a model of its kind with its perfectly reduced juices, its superb worked vegetables and its bowl of mashed potatoes garnished with croutons. The whole dish is washed down with a wine chosen from a well-stocked list of Alsace wines. Desserts don't play second fiddle. For example, the Banoffee, a combination of banana and caramel, is revisited to good effect, with an excellent gourmet-to-light ratio and incredibly melt-in-the-mouth textures. A meal in this annex of the Girardin restaurant allows you to enjoy the charm of a singular place at relatively affordable prices.

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