Coup de Main

Rating: 14
Author: Gault&Millau

59000 LILLE

14/20
Chef's Restaurant

6 PHOTOS

Chef: Victor Berthe
Cooking: French | Gastronomic
Style: Wine Bar | With friends

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

22 to 60

Gault&Millau's review 2026

A logo in the shape of a fennel and a corkscrew, a large shop window and a small room that smacks of life, camaraderie and a love of good food and good wine. After a year in business, Victor Berthe, a former chef at Rozó, and Clément Delécluse, France's Best Young Sommelier 2021, are bringing this neighborhood bistro nugget to life. The two partners are well-versed, and the fluidity of the service is on a par with the high culinary quality, thanks to a chef who scrupulously follows what nature offers according to the seasons, chooses his meat and fish in the region before maturing them, and picks his herbs during his walks in the countryside. It's like a shortcut to modern cuisine: short choices, mono-products on certain dishes, seasonings with character, a menu that can change every day, or at least every week. The soft Artois trout and its vegetables of the moment, which could reconcile some children with greenery, is preceded by a focaccia and its pan-fried snails spiced up with a succulent wild garlic leaf sauce, before discovering a kiwi, mint and lemon balm ganache for dessert. You'll also want to visit the wine cellar and discover the sommelier's latest finds, which you can drink on the premises or take home as you would at a wine shop.