La Table du Grapiot

Rating: 14.5
Author: Gault&Millau

39600 PUPILLIN

14.5/20
Chef's Restaurant

BOOK

7 PHOTOS

Chef: Vivien Sonzogni

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

60 to 94

Gault&Millau's review 2026

At first glance, the whole village seems to be asleep, the streets deserted under the driving rain and the calm of small country villages. Then there's this astonishingly large house, combining traditional Jura architecture in yellow sandstone with a cubic anthracite steel extension that's frighteningly modern. It was undoubtedly this duality that seduced Vivien Sonzogni and his partner Noémie Paris, who found here an apt and physical expression of their vision in the kitchen. Together with their partners Violette Bergeron and Hugo Signori, they took over the place in 2024, and have made it a real focal point in Pupillin, where families, tourists, lovers and gourmands all come together in perfect harmony. Winner of the Gault&Millau award, the young chef has created a beautiful tribute to his region, through a cuisine of terroir where references are not lacking, offering a lively approach to the Jura heritage. We find the essential dishes in elaborate forms: smoked Thaurin beef tongue and a contemporary reinterpretation of the flavors of pot-au-feu, horseradish and gherkin for acidity, the beautiful Jura white asparagus revisited grilled with curry, yellow wine sabayon and a vegetal touch of lemon and arugula, the beautiful salmon trout from Les Planches, a variation on celery, sorrel and wormwood, then the great classic of Bresse poultry with morel mushrooms, marinated supreme and pressed thighs, yellow wine sauce, exemplary. Also worthy of mention is the well-balanced work with escargot and cancoillotte, spiced up with a parsley gel. Last but not least, a fine rhubarb dessert by Mathieu Vermes, with tagetes passion sauce and cookie crumble, buttered toast and jam. A very fine Jura cellar, also well developed in other regions, notably with verticals, commented and advised with experience by Hugo Signori.