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37-39 rue Boissière
75016 Paris
France

Phone : 01 41 40 99 80

GaultMillau © 2025 All rights reserved

3 PHOTOS
Chef Jean-Baptiste Philau
Cooking French | Local
Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
18 € to 24 €
Gault&Millau's review
12/20
Gourmet Restaurant Jean-Baptiste Philau took the plunge! Here he is, at home, on the front line. So yes, of course, the room isn't very big and still lacks patina. But with its white walls and ceiling, and simple but comfortable furnishings, the overall impression is fresh and coherent, warmed by a relaxed welcome and friendly service. In the kitchen, the inspiration provided by the market gives rise to clever, sharp compositions that bear witness to real savoir-faire. The simple veal tartare with anchovies is tasty, especially when paired with "lacto-fermented" Jerusalem artichokes to enrich the taste. Next up, the lovely, crispy-skinned pollock steak is accompanied by lightly roasted cauliflower and leek, and a few turnips. The "travel" touch is provided by a deftly measured pinch of garam masala. A short sauce is probably all that's missing to smooth the plate. For dessert, we take no chances with a perfect rice pudding with salted butter caramel and homemade muesli. As for the short wine list, it's resolutely organic and natural: Caroline Bain or Julien Delrieu for the Loire, muscadet from David Landron, mâcon-loché from domaine Tripoz, côtes-du-rhône from domaine Mas de Libian... A few maceration wines too.
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35170 Bruz
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Jean-Baptiste Philau
Jean-Baptiste Philau Chef
Jean-Baptiste Philau Jean-Baptiste Philau Chef

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