Lucas Carton

Rating: 15.5
Author: Gault&Millau

9 Place de la Madeleine, 75008 Paris, France

15.5/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

8 PHOTOS

Cooking: Gastronomic | Signature cuisine | Traditional
Style: Elegant | Romantic

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

120 to 200

Gault&Millau's review 2026

The location is historic. The name is still written in large letters on the facade, but a champagne brand has been added, as the venue is now owned by a wine group. In the very large dining room, maple and sycamore woodwork crafted by Majorelle provides the perfect setting—elegant and warm. This Art Nouveau woodwork, illuminated by Planel’s bronze sconces, contributes fully to the magic of the place. For the past few years, Hugo Bourny has been serving up a very inviting and light cuisine that shines through in compositions full of vitality. The summery starter arrives on tiptoe: cucumber is paired with marinated cuttlefish, accompanied by a deeply flavorful broth infused with green cardamom and lovage. Simple yet so effective! Next, the beautifully pearlescent sea bream is served alongside superb “charred” leeks. Bold in flavor yet perfectly balanced, the broth with hints of ginger and nasturtium lends the dish an extremely pleasing depth. Subtly marinated in Chartreuse, the tender lamb chop—cooked to a perfect pink—couldn’t have asked for a better accompaniment than these delicious peas, whose simmered pods exude subtle notes of spruce. The chef also brings to the table a sort of small “leg of lamb, tarragon, and lemon” cromesquis, which we savor with relish. Dessert provides a clean and decisive conclusion: the tartness of the rhubarb is tempered by a silky, creamy sauce made with Guara almonds and meadowsweet, punctuated by spicy notes (wiri wiri chili). The service is brisk, attentive, and very friendly. However, even the least seasoned diners may feel a certain sense of excitement. The wine list is opulent. If you’re not counting the cost, you can treat yourself to prestigious estates and older vintages. More reasonably, a few dozen euros may be enough to treat yourself to a decent bottle. Editor’s Note: In early August 2026, Hugo Bourny announced on social media that he was leaving these legendary kitchens. We’ll discuss this further soon.