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37-39 rue Boissière
75016 Paris
France

Phone : 01 41 40 99 80

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Le Baudelaire - Hôtel Le Burgundy

75001 PARIS
14.5/20
 Chef's Restaurant
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© Emilie Franzo
© E.Franzo
14 PHOTOS
Chef Mylo Levin
Cooking French | Gastronomic
Services Access disabled | Accomodation | Terrace | Valet parking
Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
72 € to 195 €
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Gault&Millau's review
14.5/20
Chef's Restaurant It's not easy to part with the cumbersome protocol of a "luxury" hotel. Here, we think that all these manners are essential to please and, above all, to retain. The setting must have cost a few sesterces, to dress up the lobby as a restaurant, or the corridor, or the back room ("but it's more for seminars"), or even the patio in summer. Nevertheless, chef Anthony Denon manages to express himself: his cooking is restrained, but reveals real talent. If the vegetal dominance sounds a little like an imposed exercise, he proves himself adept at it, in the appetizers, then in the lightly smoked salmon, sea urchin herb cream condiment and katsuobushi, a fresh, spring-like composition served with a little emulsion and ink tuile that's a little superfluous. Even more brilliant is his version of artichoke, with a herbaceous sabayon coffee condiment, which he subtly and powerfully coats with a glass of coffee-scented rum. The brill is less memorable, with a variation on cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower, well done, nicely cooked and just seasoned. Pastry chef Léandre Vivier follows the same principles of freshness with a fine work on rhubarb, fountain and meadowsweet. Elegant young service, with a smile when needed, manages to do the job without weighing the place down too much, while the cellar is old-fashioned and not very interesting, with a choice by the glass that's both modest and expensive. It's a global offer that the recently appointed young sommelier director is charged with reviving.
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Address 75001 Rue Duphot
75001 Paris
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Mylo Levin
Mylo Levin Chef
Mylo Levin Mylo Levin Chef
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Léandre Vivier Pastry Chef
Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Léandre Vivier Pastry Chef
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Arnaud Beaulieu Head sommelier
Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Arnaud Beaulieu Head sommelier
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Hôtel le Burgundy
Exceptional Hotel
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Services Disabled access, On-site catering, Pets allowed, Private Parking, Restaurant selected by G&M, Room service
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Services Disabled access, On-site catering, Pets allowed, Private Parking, Restaurant selected by G&M, Room service
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