Akrame Benallal remains one of the driving forces on the Paris restaurant scene, diversifying his offer and promoting Levantine cuisine with energy and intelligence. The man we singled out as the Grand of Tomorrow fifteen years ago, after first discovering him at a golf club restaurant in Touraine, has come a long way. And while he now seems a little less preoccupied with his amiral table, we're still confident in his creative capacity. Our most recent experiences on Rue Trochet were a little less soaring, but some fine moments, combining lamb, pistachio and cherry, or with mozzarella ice cream perfumed with jasmine and paired with a tasty minestrone of seasonal vegetables and fruit. First-timers will be amused by the Ricard and peanut paste granita and will probably Instagram the monochrome pineapple-caramel dessert (all black, in homage to Pierre Soulages), while others will remember having come across them in the past. The service isn't overly concerned, but it's very friendly, and the cellar is reassuring and doesn't take any major risks either.